Dion Lee RTW Spring 2024

Dion Lee’s signature ethos is one which mashes up utilitarian codes with a subversive, horny mindset.  For his spring assortment, the designer mentioned he additional explored this narrative by “taking part in round with software shed corsetry.” 

“I’m fairly tough once I wish to pin issues, reduce issues up and collage them collectively. It was a cut-and-paste of lots of concepts that I’ve type of been working into over my complete profession,” he mentioned of his naive, trendy method to industrial language.

Corsetry got here with trompe l’oeil wrenches as exterior boning on a white shirting bodysuit or with workwear boots’ twine lacing whereas curved, jewelry-like bent nails upheld fluid attire throughout the ribcage. Screws have been tacked to clothes rather than studs, and utility pockets adorned the hems of tailoring, a powerful assortment of workwear garb (undone overalls, cargo pants, a utility kilt) and difficult, thigh-high boots (an ongoing collaboration with Paris-based Each). 

Lee balanced the robust particulars (together with edgy leathers) with a mixture of his signature, horny cutout laces (which appeared recent with elevated basketball shorts); collaborative parachute boots with Ancuta Sarca (made out of Lee’s deadstock supplies), and sensual knit dressing in opposition to sportif jackets and sharp tailor-made layers.

Impressed by his fall assortment’s methods of draping electrical cables, Lee mentioned he pushed the thought additional to derive the gathering’s new gathered volumes, greatest seen by his drapy, bubbled leather-based skirts that have been airbrushed from the facet in metallic silver and red-hot hues. Lee additional defined that the present’s mild set up (by multidisciplinary digital artist Jacolby Satterwhite) impressed the gathering’s play on mild and reflectivity, additionally seen by his ombre denims and frayed, laminated denim and workwear pants. 

The again tag of a khaki laminated utility pant was even plugged into {the electrical} cable seen slung round a mannequin’s shoulder — electrifying!