New arty references, the idea of reminiscence and utilitarian components infiltrated the subtle and tailoring-filled world of Ilenia Durazzi for spring 2024.
Gaining confidence season after season, the Italian designer continued to construct on her refined aesthetic, displaying new vary inside her model’s core codes, which embody her ever-present equestrian inspiration, fascination for up to date artwork, ardour for rationalist structure and feminine empowerment.
For one, her exact strains and sharp eye for element have been seen in a sequence of deconstructed outerwear — from raincoats to parkas — which made for a refreshing addition to her sartorial signatures, right here coming with tweaks, like sudden slits on the entrance of blazer jackets in cool wool.
Uneven skirts nodding to the form of saddles, separates in supple leather-based and using boots have been nonetheless central to Durazzi’s imaginative and prescient, and flanked by crisp poplin shirts and artful knits that enhanced the tactile high quality of the gathering.
Some of the eye-catching items — a skirt embellished with detachable panels — evoked the idea of reminiscence that Durazzi needed to discover this season by nodding to handkerchiefs embroidered with love messages and as soon as handed by moms and girlfriends to males within the navy, she mentioned.
The designer defined the selection of portraying fashions on clay pedestals to wink to Land Artwork, artists comparable to Piero Manzoni and Joseph Beuys, in addition to a approach to have fun girls. To this finish, she titled the gathering “Monument to Herself” and cited as inspiration Judy Chicago’s set up “The Dinner Celebration.”
This assortment was one other strong effort that confirmed Durazzi has a transparent imaginative and prescient to match her skilled hand — all property that would come in useful find her personal seat at a trend desk that at present has many empty chairs of key artistic posts.
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