MILAN – Luca Magliano would be the visitor designer on the upcoming version of Pitti Uomo, scheduled to run from Jan. 9 to 12 on the Fortezza da Basso in Florence.
The announcement crowns a golden yr for the Bologna-native designer, after his namesake model has gained growing warmth on the Milan scene in the previous few seasons and he acquired the Karl Lagerfeld Particular Jury Prize on the LVMH Prize for Younger Vogue Designers.
Though particulars of the Florence occasion are nonetheless underneath wraps, Pitti Uomo organizers mentioned on Tuesday that Magliano will stage a particular present in a still-undisclosed location.
His participation on the males’s commerce present will mark a homecoming expertise for Magliano, since he made his model’s runway debut at Florence’s Dogana venue throughout Pitti Uomo in 2018 with a group dubbed “Wardrobe for a Man in Love.” He later joined the official Milan Males’s Vogue Week calendar.
“Pitti is the place the place our venture manifested itself for the primary time 5 years in the past, with that giant mountain of pink roses which, occupied with it now, offers me an important sense of dizziness and tenderness: like wanting within the mirror after time and rediscovering the vital issues, even when every little thing has occurred within the meantime,” Magliano recalled. “This return to residence, to folks you’re keen on and respect, fills me with pleasure. It’s the perfect alternative to think about ourselves sooner or later, extra Magliano than ever.”
“There are at the very least three good the explanation why we proposed to Magliano to point out in Florence, in settlement with Digicam della Moda,” mentioned Lapo Cianchi, communication and occasions director on the truthful’s organizer Pitti Immagine.
“The primary is that Luca stands out for his skill to form in an unique manner the cultural and social canons normally related to Italian vogue: a key factor on this sense is his inclination in the direction of a very collective work. The second is that it’s fascinating for us, each time potential, to periodically mark the time – the profession and the stylistic evolution – of designers who made their public debut at Pitti Uomo after which established themselves internationally. The third is that we just like the particular person, his generosity and his enthusiasm, his cultured simplicity,” Cianchi defined.
A vogue design graduate of Bologna’s Libera Università delle Arti, Magliano reduce his tooth on Alessandro Dell’Acqua’s workforce in Milan previous to transferring again to Bologna in 2013 to work with designer Manuela Arcari on the Ter et Bantine vogue line. In 2015, he determined to go solo and launched the I Was Bare unbiased girls’s model, which has since been discontinued. The next yr, Arcari, who can also be the president of Arcari e Co., provided him the prospect to supply his personal line underneath license and the Magliano model was born.
The winner of the ninth version of Vogue Italia’s expertise contest Who Is on Subsequent? Uomo in 2017, he unveiled a fall 2018 assortment throughout Pitti Uomo however his type and strategy to vogue has advanced ever since. What began as daring collections stuffed with references to the ‘80s, totally different subcultures, “small-town boys” from his hometown of Bologna and occasional tongue-in-cheek and irreverent prints matured into soulful, vintage-looking menswear imbued with charming tailoring and a effective sense of shade.
Nonetheless his vogue stands out for being permeated with rustic, lived-in familiarity and exalting humble vogue archetypes, such because the employee jacket, army-surplus coats and security footwear. For instance, the press notes of his fall 2023 assortment confirmed the hero of Magliano to be the employee and the lineup to be “a tribute to what’s most stylish: the fatigue, ‘il travaglio,’ as they are saying in dialect.”
Shining a lightweight on this totally different dimension of the nation, removed from the glamorized variations or the same old “La Dolce Vita” postcard-like picture, is what additional contributed to the growing curiosity within the model. Somewhat than pointing to aspirational garments and life, the designer exhibits the sweetness in realism, in an train that kind of winks to the quintessentially Italian neorealism movie motion.
Along with the LVMH Prize contest that introduced Magliano worldwide visibility – together with a grant of 200,000 euros and a one-year mentorship program from the LVMH Group – there was one other milestone within the model’s historical past. On the finish of final yr, the corporate offered a minority stake to vogue enterprise accelerator Underscore District to help the following stage of its development, as reported. Ever since, the corporate has opened its on-line retailer, expanded the workforce and centered on equipment.
As particular visitor of Pitti Uomo, Magliano follows within the footsteps of the likes of ERL’s Eli Russell Linnetz, Martine Rose, Grace Wales Bonner and Thebe Magugu. Former visitor manufacturers and designers displaying in Florence additionally included Jil Sander’s artistic administrators Lucie and Luke Meier; Y/Venture’s artistic director Glenn Martens; Jonathan Anderson of JW Anderson; Roberto Cavalli, and Craig Inexperienced.
It’s understood that is simply the primary announcement Pitti Uomo organizers will make to construct hype across the a hundred and fifth version of the worldwide menswear commerce present.