Chances are high that the Italian phrase “Malafemmina” won’t ever seem on Duolingo, however it could have come in useful for foreigners attending the Marco Rambaldi present to know why the designer titled his spring 2024 assortment after it.
In Italian dialect, the time period refers to a girl of ailing reputation, fickle in love, or just a prostitute. “We determined to present a optimistic connotation to a time period sometimes originated as derogatory in the direction of ladies and their freedom [and used] by males who primarily worry them,” mentioned the designer backstage. In the end, what Rambaldi needed to stage was “a terrific bacchanal through which our ladies and queer forged could be free to be who they wish to be.”
Within the language of trend, this translated into an additional step within the exploration of a extra sensual aspect of his aesthetic, a course of that the designer began final season.
His beloved knitting strategies have been profusely deployed to craft seductive cutout silhouettes with the ever-present coronary heart motif, reminding one in all Rambaldi’s romantic roots, in addition to uneven skirts and barely-there tops hanging from one shoulder.
The designer’s signature crochet was seen on corsetry-inspired or heart-shaped bodices in deadstock leather-based, which in some circumstances got here with crisscross particulars or chains and fringes for an additional swish as fashions superior barefoot with their footwear in hand.
Relatively than evoking walks of disgrace, the styling alternative and the characters’ sluggish tempo and assured strut amplified the sensation of empowerment Rambaldi supposed to ship. Additional delving into the lingerie-inspired narrative, the designer added liquid slipdresses — additionally worn as lengthy skirts mimicking an undressed impact — satin mini frocks and transparencies that made for a easy but compelling counterpoint to his most textural items.
Including to this combine, Rambaldi relied on a bit of assist from AI to develop a spread of mythological prints splashed on pajama-like shirts and boxers, and sprinkled a splash of sparkle with bralettes, pencil skirts and denim pants coated in thermo-adhesive crystals.