Undercover RTW Spring 2024

Loss and renewal have been the themes of Jun Takahashi’s tender, melancholic and ravishing spring present, most of his garments veiled in black like a mourner at a funeral.

Many collections really feel lazy subsequent to Undercover, given Takahashi’s beneficiant exploration of a number of themes and meticulously detailed designs.

He opened his show with ghostly tailoring, organza standing in for wool and revealing the inside workings of pants and jackets — in addition to boutonnières, enjoying playing cards and different mementos trapped within the gauzy layers.

A clear trench had feathery wings integrated within the again, a wink to Wim Wenders’ 1988 movie “Wings of Want,” whose theme track swelled from the audio system. (Set in Berlin, the film depicts an angel who tunes in to individuals’s ideas.)

All method of clothes — from white sweatshirts to terrific tuxedos — got here veiled in black tulle, similar to the 4 crystal chandeliers askew on the ground of the uncooked, concrete area. Takahashi additionally devoted a section of the present to German artist Neo Rauch, whose surrealist historic scenes served as a colourful, but disquieting print.

Whereas drenched in narrative and artistry, the gathering felt fascinating, darkly romantic, and edgy on the identical time. There have been even leather-based purses with cool {hardware}.

For the finale, Takahashi despatched out 4 mesmerizing attire with bulging terrarium skirts, every with its personal lighting and ecosystem of contemporary flowers and reside butterflies that have been launched instantly after the present, the designer’s translator assured.

Backstage, the designer alluded to the latest lack of family members, describing the present as a requiem of their honor.

“Clothes stream like a fading reminiscence; a surreal world showing and disappearing at the hours of darkness,” he defined within the present notes.

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