Viktor & Rolf on Present, Reformation’s New Capsule, Helmut Newton’s Newest Exhibit

WIT AND WONDER: Commentary on overconsumption, critique of the style business or arch tackle present occasions, each assortment provided up by Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren over the previous three a long time is “all the time an announcement about one thing,” stated vogue curator Thierry-Maxime Loriot.

Therefore “Viktor & Rolf: Vogue Statements,” an upcoming exhibition organized by the Kunsthalle München museum in Munich. Opening on Feb. 23, it’s set to run till Oct. 6, 2024, earlier than touring to different locations.

“It may be an announcement of humor, of irony, of society. All their collections had been about their response on a specific matter,” continued the curator, noting the “nice humorousness and nice sense of irony in [Horsting and Snoeren’s] work,” particularly in regards to the business itself.

Reasonably than a retrospective, Loriot instructed WWD the exhibition is meant as an introspection into the designers’ physique of labor, taking a thematic method to the passions and obsessions which have been woven into their work of the previous three a long time.

Take upcycling. “Now it’s stylish, however from their first assortment on the Hyères pageant [in 1993], they had been already upcycling attire,” stated the curator, declaring using classic materials from Balenciaga and Yves Saint Laurent in Horsting and Snoeren’s first couture lineup.

Transcribing the way in which Viktor & Rolf “exhibits are performances and their collections make you smile,” Loriot and the Dutch duo chosen some 100 appears to be like to be showcased alongside multimedia parts, sketches, drawings and pictures in addition to tapestries, dolls and works by visible artists, together with Andreas Gursky and Cindy Sherman.

Different galleries will alight on “key collections that actually modified the notion of high fashion and vogue” for Loriot, similar to the autumn 1999 “Russian Doll” assortment that noticed mannequin Maggie Rizer wearing layer after layer.

Additionally explored right here might be their relationship to stage costume, with an exhibit on the designs the duo created for “Der Freischütz,” a 2009 opera manufacturing by American theater director and playwright Robert Wilson.

Whereas displays will vary from the duo’s very first assortment and meander all through to the latest collections, similar to spring 2023’s “Late Stage Capitalism,” Loriot is adamant the ensemble shouldn’t be a “vogue lesson” and attraction to a broad crowd — “anybody who enjoys craftsmanship and distinctive works,” he stated.

The present in Munich would be the third Viktor & Rolf exhibition curated by Loriot, in collaboration with the home and L’Oréal Luxe, after 2016’s  “Viktor & Rolf: Vogue Artists” and the “Viktor & Rolf: Vogue Artists 25 Years” of 2018, which celebrated the model’s 25^th anniversary.

The Dutch design duo have additionally been the topic of the 2022 “Viktor & Rolf: MetaFashion!” exhibition, their first Asian retrospective showcased in Shenzhen, China, and a 2000 present on the Groninger Museum in The Netherlands, held solely two years after they began their couture line.

The Montreal-based curator is the power behind hit exhibitions together with “Jean Paul Gaultier: From the Sidewalk to the Catwalk,” and most lately, the “Thierry Mugler: Couturissime,” which concluded a five-city tour on the Brooklyn Museum final yr. — LILY TEMPLETON

CHANNEL CROSSING: After internet hosting a sequence of celebratory dinners in London and Paris in the course of the artwork truthful weeks, Reformation has launched its newest collaboration — a capsule assortment with Camille Rowe, the French-American mannequin and actress.

Reformation and Rowe created an edited wardrobe of fall and winter clothes, with among the items impressed by the early designs Rowe bought from the model after she moved to Los Angeles.

There are slipdresses, menswear-inspired separates, recyclable denim, and T-shirts made with the model’s signature sustainable materials.

Reformation labored with deadstock, Bluesign-certified eco-silk, organically grown cotton and poplin and regenerative Nativa wool.

A number of the knits had been made with a recycled cashmere mix that has much less carbon impression than typical cashmere.

Costs vary from 48 kilos to 378 kilos. The gathering is obtainable on-line and in among the Reformation shops.

Throughout her swing by way of London earlier this month, Reformation’s chief government officer Hali Borenstein stated the British capital is now the model’s third-largest market worldwide.

Reformation launched at Selfridges in 2021 and has 5 stand-alone shops in London: on the King’s Highway, at Battersea Energy Station, and in Shoreditch, Westbourne Grove and Covent Backyard.

It additionally has a brand new distribution middle within the Netherlands, which dispatches to Continental Europe and the U.Ok., a part of a development push below its non-public fairness house owners Permira. The model lately launched at Matches in London, and is planning to ramp up its exercise on the retailer within the spring.

With London up and operating, Borenstein stated in 2024 the main target might be on France, the place it is going to be launching at Le Bon Marché.  

Borenstein stated the intention is for worldwide markets to make up one-third of gross sales within the subsequent three years.

The launch of the Camille Rowe assortment (and European tour) comes within the wake of Reformation’s collaboration with the New York Metropolis Ballet earlier this month.

The 19-piece wardrobe was impressed by off-duty dancers and consists of attire, knitwear and footwear that take their cues from George Balanchine’s summary ballet “Jewels,” which opened the dance firm’s fall 2023 season.

Reformation marked the launch with a celebration at Lincoln Heart throughout which visitors had been capable of watch a working rehearsal with the NYCB. — SAMANTHA CONTI

NEWTON’S THEORY: Marta Ortega Pérez, the non-executive chair of Zara father or mother firm Inditex, is presenting an exhibition celebrating the life and work of photographer Helmut Newton.

Titled “Helmut Newton – Reality & Fiction,” the exhibit is curated by Philippe Garner, Matthias More durable and Tim Jefferies in collaboration with the Helmut Newton Basis, which was established by the artist in 2003.

It should open in A Coruña, Galicia, Spain, about 20 minutes away by automobile from the quick vogue epicenter of Arteixo, the place Inditex is headquartered. This marks the third exhibit backed by Ortega Pérez, who has labored to make the city a brand new cultural middle, following shows dedicated to photographers Peter Lindberg and Steven Meisel.

“To have the ability to work with photographers whose image making I’ve lengthy admired is a superb privilege. I achieve this not merely with the ambition to counterpoint the cultural lifetime of A Coruña, but additionally within the hope that future generations of picture makers will discover their very own inspiration within the work of those exceptional photographers,” stated Ortega Pérez.

“Helmut Newton is certainly one of that celestial band of photographers whose pictures are immediately recognizable as their very own. Newton’s personal nice revolutionary act was to totally change the methods through which girls had been portrayed within the pages of shiny magazines. Right here had been girls who loved model and vogue, who loved the facility and splendor of their our bodies, girls who had been elegantly seductive and untouchable. His pictures weren’t solely of his time however far forward of his time — he spectacularly set the scene for these photographers who adopted him,” she added.

Born in Berlin in 1920 to a Jewish household, in 1938 on the age of 18 Newton fled his hometown and traveled to Asia and later to Australia. He started his profession in London earlier than he hit early success within the ’70s, primarily due to his work being printed in French Vogue.

His work — a few of it iconic, a few of it controversial — was oftentimes divisive throughout his lifetime.

The exhibition will inform the story of the person behind the work with a sequence of movies exhibiting Newton at work and in dialog; private pictures offering insights into his childhood, profession and partnership together with his spouse June, and additional paperwork, posters, cameras and tools, props, intriguing artifacts, and memorabilia.

A few of his “Large Nudes” portrait sequence might be on show, together with Andy Warhol, David Bowie, Margaret Thatcher, Charlotte Rampling, Elsa Peretti, Daryl Hannah, Jerry Corridor, Naomi Campbell, Yves Saint Laurent and Karl Lagerfeld.

His lesser-known works from his outside images may even be proven, together with photographs from places as diversified as Berlin, Paris, Vienna, Los Angeles and Las Vegas.

The MOP Basis’s Peter Lindbergh exhibit in 2021 attracted greater than 100,000 guests, whereas the Steven Meisel in 2022 drew greater than 130,000 guests to A Coruña.

The exhibitions act as a fundraiser for the Marta Ortega Pérez Basis’s applications, which it devotes to instructional applications throughout the area centered on every photographer’s work which have thus far reached 9,000 college students.

Following the Lindberg exhibit, Zara launched a five-piece assortment that includes a few of his most well-known black-and-white snaps, together with Kate Moss, Amber Valletta and Linda Evangelista, in 2021.

Earlier this yr Meisel launched a 26-piece capsule assortment, which was offered in New York, and had been out there at a pop-up throughout vogue week there, in addition to Dover Road Market in London. He additionally shot the marketing campaign for the model with well-known faces together with Gigi Hadid, Kaia Gerber, and Irina Shayk, in addition to Evangelista and Valletta.

If the sample holds, maybe we must always count on a Helmut Newton collab with the excessive road model quickly.

The exhibit will run from Nov. 18 to Might 1, 2024. — L.T.

IN THE CARDS: “In my view, jewellery isn’t nearly wanting fairly, it has a sentimental or emotional which means tied to it,” stated Lynette Ong, founding father of the sustainable jewellery model Fringe of Ember, about her new tarot assortment.

“I’ve all the time liked items which have a deeper which means, be it carrying initials of my youngsters, my birthstone (emerald) but additionally the evil eye which is a safety image. I began wanting into tarot symbols as I really like utilizing talisman symbols,” she added.

The tarot assortment consists of greater than 30 items with costs starting from 45 kilos to 325 kilos, together with a serpent ear cuff, a diamond evil eye necklace, a photo voltaic appeal necklace and a hope star opal necklace.

Ong appeared to tarot to hunt which means in life to handle her “mundane common stresses,” she stated. Her first tarot studying left her actually emotional and virtually enlightened.

“It didn’t inform me what I didn’t know, however it simply made issues a bit of clearer, and virtually gave me shivers when some issues had been fairly spot on,” she stated.

Jewellery is as sentimental as superstitious to Ong.

“I believe it’s my Asian facet. I’m very into feng shui, how the placements of issues in our area impacts the stability of power. I’ve my little quirky issues I all the time do after I transfer into a brand new home, or keep away from unfortunate numbers (the quantity 4 in Chinese language is unfortunate),” she defined.

The image of the star is used to point hope, inspiration and contentment for the longer term; the serpent symbolizes renewal, resurrection, initiation, therapeutic and environmental sensitivity, and the arms symbolize creation or initiation all through the gathering.

Ong celebrated the launch of the gathering with an intimate breakfast on the Brasserie of Mild at Selfridges with clairvoyant Isabella Greenwood, in any other case often called @mom.of.spells on Instagram.

The model is engaged on a set made solely from recycled ocean plastics popping out within the close to future.

Fringe of Ember got here to worldwide fame after Meghan, Duchess of Sussex, wore a chunk from the model on her ultimate days within the U.Ok. earlier than relocating overseas together with her husband, Prince Harry, in 2020. — HIKMAT MOHAMMED

ILLUSTRATIONS ON THE BLOCK: Twenty-two illustrations produced by the Russian-born French artist and designer Erté might be going for public sale at Dreweatts on Wednesday.

In 1910, he moved to Paris to observe his desires of turning into an artist — he began his profession with the Parisian couturier Paul Poiret, which led to a collaborative working relationship with Harper’s Bazaar that spanned over twenty years. He illustrated 240 covers for the journal.

The success of Erté’s illustrations with the style journal took his profession to the following degree, working with Hollywood producers on silent movies similar to “Paris,” “Ben-Hur” and “The Mystic.”

The non-public collector has instructed the public sale home to donate the proceeds from the sale equally to a few charities: Southbank Sinfonia, Grange Park Opera and Little Angel Theatre in Islington.

Erté was additionally celebrated for his work with the Parisian theaters the Folies Bergère, Bal Tabarin and Le Lido.

The Dreweatts assortment options vibrant and flamboyant illustrations of characters in patterned costumes.

Earlier this month, the vintage textiles, furnishings, work and objects which for many years adorned inside designer Robert Kime’s houses in London and Provençe raised 9.6 million kilos at Dreweatts.

The pre-sale estimate for “Robert Kime: The Private Assortment,” was 1.2 million kilos. Greater than 900 heaps went below the hammer in the course of the three-day public sale from Oct. 4 to six.

Kime had amassed his eclectic assortment over 30 years throughout his travels by way of the U.Ok., Europe and the Center East. The items on sale ranged from an historical Athenian kylix to a silk embellished glove that had belonged to King Charles I and a big, uncommon bezoar stone courting from the sixteenth or seventeenth century. — H.M.

ON THE GREEN: Ben Sherman is entering into the activewear area and is beginning with golf.

The U.Ok.-based males’s model has signed a licensing cope with The Levy Group for a line of golf attire that can launch subsequent yr. The gathering will embody polos, T-shirts, windbreakers, quarter-zip efficiency fleeces, vests, pants and shorts that mix Ben Sherman’s vibrant prints and colours with efficiency options similar to fast drying and cooling materials. Costs will vary from $79 to $169.

“We’re thrilled to be partnering with The Levy Group for our upcoming sport vertical for Ben Sherman and to increase our intensive product choices,” stated Tim Reid, government vp of vogue and life-style at Marquee Manufacturers, which owns Ben Sherman. “Their distinctive fame and unwavering dedication to high quality completely aligns with the model’s rising imaginative and prescient. We’re excited to discover extra technical and useful types, delivering attire that embodies the essence of Ben Sherman whereas assembly the calls for of lively people. Collectively, we’ll create modern collections that elevate efficiency and elegance on the planet of sports activities attire.”

On the identical time, Marquee additionally inked a cope with The Levy Group for its Dakine American outside attire line. The corporate will produce attire for Dakine in a wide range of life-style classes together with efficiency, ski and snowboard life-style, lively and outside attire in addition to base layers and swimwear.

These items may even characteristic moisture-wicking materials and sturdy development to face up to the pains of outside adventures. Product pricing will vary from $65 to $575.

“Levy’s design, sourcing and distribution capabilities span seven a long time and can enable Dakine to proceed constructing modern attire merchandise all over the world,” stated Pater Maule, government vp and common supervisor of lively/outside manufacturers for Marquee. “Their funding in efficiency supplies mixed with business main inventive expertise will make sure the model maintains its high quality and sustainability fame. We’re collaborating to launch in spring 2024 with an in depth vary of life-style and efficiency merchandise.” — JEAN E. PALMIERI