You Can Gown Like Them: Trend Designers Discuss About Their Runway Uniforms

The final look on the runway at just about each vogue present belongs to the designer, and his or her selection would possibly shock you.

WWD went backstage throughout vogue weeks in New York, London, Milan and Paris to ask the query: What’s your uniform if you take the bow?

Kim Jones, inventive director of high fashion, ready-to-wear and fur collections for ladies of Fendi:

“I’ve bought my beautiful Lalanne brooch that Silvia and Delfina [Venturini Fendi] gave me for my birthday. I really like Lalanne — who doesn’t? I discover [dressing for my bow] fairly worrying. I’m not actually a public-facing particular person as a lot as attainable…it’s just like the worst factor for me on this planet. I simply do it and get on with it.”

Giorgio Armani:

Armani mentioned the colour blue “all the time fits” him, as he’s “cautious colours by no means turn into too extreme” on him.

Jonathan Anderson, artistic director of JW Anderson and Loewe:

“Loewe boots, denim and a navy sweater. It’s all the time the identical. It’s simply one thing I don’t want to consider.”

Olivier Rousteing, artistic director of Balmain:

“Each time, I [intend to] put on shorts and sneakers as a result of half of my day, I’m in sneakers and shorts. However on the finish of the day…I want so as to add my shoulders to face you guys. This vogue business is hard so I want my shoulders to help. A tailor-made jacket is one thing that I’ve to put on.”

Sabato De Sarno, artistic director of Gucci:

De Sarno was sporting black T-shirt and pants, saying that merely put, he all the time wears black.

Glenn Martens, artistic director of Y/Challenge and Diesel:

“I’m tremendous sweaty as a result of I’m touching each single look till they go on the runway, so I attempt to put on one thing very primary and easy. However I do have [on] Y/Challenge Evergreen, which is our sustainable base model line.”

Matthew M. Williams, artistic director of Givenchy:

“It modifications relying on the season. At this time, [a T-shirt found in Japan], Givenchy boots and a few Alyx pants.”

Matthieu Blazy, artistic director of Bottega Veneta:

“I gown like I do each day. Usually, it’s my favourite white T-shirt and my 501s.”

Ian Griffiths, artistic director of Max Mara:

“I’ve a very good luck ritual each day, which is I’ve to ensure I’ve bought a pocket sq.. And it needs to be the precise one. There are some that are luckier than others.”

Maximilian Davis, artistic director of Ferragamo:

“A crewneck sweater and a straight-leg trouser.…I simply attempt to be calm.” 

Filippo Grazioli, designer of Missoni:

“My uniform goes to be utterly white. Throughout my analysis within the archive of Missoni, I found they by no means use optical white and for me, [it] is known as a colour as effectively.…It actually brings the sunshine, the actual worth of every colour. The charms I’m all the time sporting are my grandfather’s ring, quartz as a result of it brings new power and [a whistle].”

Massimo Giorgetti, founder and artistic director of MSGM:

“One thing simple — a cargo trouser, cotton T-shirt and a cotton shirt.”

Charaf Tajer, founder and artistic director of Casablanca:

“Each time it’s completely different however this time, I wished to put on a go well with to honor Nigeria and Lagos.”

Roksanda Ilinčić, founder and artistic director of Roksanda:

“It’s normally the attire that didn’t make it to the lineup. I gown how I really feel, I’m spoilt for selection I need to say.”

Erdem Moralıoğlu, founder and artistic director of Erdem:

“I put on the very same factor each day, normally New Steadiness trainers, denims and a sweater, that’s for on a regular basis life and any state of affairs.”

Marco Capaldo, cofounder and artistic director of 16Arlington:

“I’m all the time in black. That is my uniform. Lots of people ask me that. I feel when you need to make so many artistic choices, you need to virtually act as a clean canvas your self. It’s one much less factor to consider.”

Ermanno Scervino:

“I’m not superstitious, and I all the time look the identical, in a white shirt, tailor-made jacket and denims. I depend on my ideas, and look inward for good luck.” 

Philipp Plein:

“I’ve a cross since I’ve been praying each day since I’ve been six years outdated. And I’ve a bracelet with the 2 names of my sons. Rocket is my baby, Romeo is the large one — after which we’ve Rouge, who’s coming in a few hours. So we simply need to end right here, go the hospital and have a child.”

Dimitra Petsa, founder and artistic director of Di Petsa:

“It’s normally what I used to be sporting the evening earlier than within the all-nighter.”

Huishan Zhang:

“All black, however now I’ve chosen grey — one thing traditional.”

Edward Crutchley:

“I had on a white oversize Balenciaga shirt, Willy Chavarria shorts, my very own socks and Dior footwear. The first concern for me on present day is consolation. There’s loads to do and set up that the viewers by no means sees. So not having to fret about what I’m sporting and with the ability to run round is essential. I need the main focus to be on the garments on the runway, not those I’m sporting.”

Edeline Lee:

“I’m all the time working round on the present, so I usually put on a cushty all-black outfit, with our atelier lab coat on prime. We designed a lab coat for the studio to put on whereas working. It’s bought deep pockets for all of the issues I want and a belt to clip on my headset.”

Masha Popova:

“There’s lots of issues we will’t put in a present, so I all the time prefer to put on the spare appears to be like.”

Molly Goddard:

“No, nothing and I had a meltdown this morning as a result of I spotted that nothing match me. So, I’m not the one to ask, I simply threw on the one factor that match me.”

Susan Fang:

“I normally select an merchandise from my new assortment that wasn’t chosen on the present. It needs to be the fortunate colour of the day primarily based on my delivery chart, then I match it with [an item featuring] a particular approach for this assortment. This time, it was a prime that we couldn’t discover the right backside for the lineup and since my fortunate colour of the day was blue, I matched with blue shorts from my private wardrobe, blue flower headband and earrings that additionally weren’t chosen for the catwalk.”

Aaron Esh:

“I wore a grey knitted jumper from the brand new assortment, a pair of heavy wool Helmut Lang trousers with Prada lace-ups.”

Chet Lo:

“I simply wished to put on one thing that was on this planet of the gathering so I assumed a thong was a necessity in addition to a skirt and prime from the gathering that we made [as] a prototype so it was fairly enjoyable. I by no means wore a thong on the runway in order that was fascinating.”

Gong Li, founder and artistic director of 8on8:

“Usually I might simply put on one thing clear and informal simply to maintain my motion at backstage way more snug. Except typically I need to take part of the present as a specific position.”

Ancuta Sarca:

“I wore an extended black cotton skirt that was a toile from final season’s presentation, a white mesh zip-up hooded prime and my white Furiosa Boots from fall 2023.”

Jiaen Cai, founder and artistic director of J E Cai:

“I used to be sporting certainly one of my normal J E Cai T-shirts from my Algorithmic Modular System system. Inside this method. T-shirt model and hoodie model parts may be systematically interchanged. It’s mixed with principal T-shirt parts and two circle sleeves with shoulder pad parts.”

Marie Christine Statz, founder and artistic director of Gauchere:

“T-shirt and tailor-made pants. That is the working uniform if you don’t have time to alter.”

Kevin Germanier:

“I’ve a contact of colour: [my sweater] is navy. It’s a working joke that I all the time put on the identical factor — and I’m sporting the identical jumper from my two final reveals.”

Maiko Kurogouchi, designer of Mame Kurogouchi:

“Black, as a result of I’m a kuroko [Kabuki stagehand] behind my model.”

Cecilie Bahnsen:

“I all the time put on a black smocked gown and one thing I really feel snug in but in addition that enhances the model.”

Marie Adam-Leenaerdt:

“I take no matter is available. [Today’s] look is one thing that didn’t make the reduce for the runway. In any other case, no matter’s handy: black T-shirt, black pants…”

Alphonse Maitrepierre:

“Really at the moment, I’m simply feeling like a carrot.”

Rocco Iannone, artistic director of Ferrari:

“I attempt to preserve my look as minimal as attainable….I attempt to characterize myself as a lot as attainable and switch the main focus to what I’m doing.”

Daniele Calcaterra, founder and artistic director of Calcaterra:

“I all the time gown the identical, and have been sporting variations of the identical outfit for the previous 20 years, a roundneck sweater, shirt and trousers — all in black.”