French furrier Yves Salomon is increasing his attain within the menswear enterprise. After presenting his first full males’s line for fall 2023, the model’s first summer time assortment will launch in January throughout Paris Males’s Week.
It’s been a piece-by-piece development because the model created its first outerwear for males in 2015 after it found guys have been shopping for military-inspired ladies’s parkas off the rack. Salomon has slowly added objects since then.
“We had a number of requests, so we determined to increase it,” Salomon mentioned. “Really, a number of males like the way in which we strategy style — particularly our winter clothes.”
The autumn assortment options slim-cut jackets, blue and khaki trousers with suspenders, cashmere sweaters and the good informal quarter-zip collar popularized by “Succession.” Shearling coats are additionally supplied.
Though the light-weight nature of the summer time season initially offered a dilemma for the corporate — “It was a problem as a result of there isn’t a fur and no shearling,” he mentioned — Salomon goes full steam forward with the ready-to-wear collections and sees the class as a predominant development driver. Males’s represents about 10 % of gross sales now, however he sees that rising to 30 % inside two years.
To assist obtain that objective, the model has opened a nook in Paris’ Le Bon Marché, and can open a pop-up in London’s Harrods — the one division retailer in U.Ok. that also sells fur — in December. “We’re glad with the outcomes — it is without doubt one of the finest[sellers] on the ground,” mentioned Salomon of the Le Bon Marché nook.
Along with the ready-to-wear, the model has additionally developed a full males’s ski assortment, which is offered largely in its 15 company-owned shops, centered in resorts all over the world. The ski line may even have a giant push in China the place the objective is promote in 1,000 ski resorts by 2030. “There may be enormous demand within the winter ski garment sector there,” he mentioned.
Salomon sources materials from Italy and Spain, with fur coming from Scandinavia, with the vast majority of the collections produced in France. Salomon mentioned they’re “utilizing their know-how” from the ladies’s strains for the lads’s assortment, which is designed by a staff based mostly in Paris.
“There may be demand for a luxurious product that can also be modern, comfy and completed with lovely materials,” he mentioned. “There’s a little little bit of a vacuum available in the market.”
New merchandise within the males’s line embody cashmere sweaters, which have initially offered effectively and will probably be expanded. And it has developed a spread of fur-alternatives for retailers and platforms equivalent to Mr Porter, which have moral insurance policies.
“As a result of we shouldn’t have huge distribution, we really feel now we have an enormous potential for growth,” he mentioned.
As a solution to beef up its wholesale presence, Salomon will take part in January’s Pitti Uomo present in an effort to achieve new patrons. “We’re going to be fairly aggressive commercially to increase our distribution.” The corporate’s means to now supply two full collections a 12 months also needs to assist the model attain its potential, he believes, as its beforehand restricted vary was an issue for retailers.
Items within the males’s line vary from 300 to three,000 euros for its signature fur-lined Military parka. Salomon believes this worth vary positions it competitively amongst luxurious manufacturers. “[Our target] is a person who can afford a fantastic, good garment,” he mentioned. “We’re fairly aggressive on worth and so it’s the man who’s searching for a luxurious product and worth.”
Within the U.S., the model operates a retailer in Aspen and sells at Bergdorf Goodman in New York, however the nation is a significant development goal for 2024. “We discover a number of nice potential there. For the second it isn’t a giant market however we count on it to develop,” he mentioned, noting they may prolong their attain by means of extra division and specialty retailer distribution as an alternative of opening extra standalone shops.
China is also a goal, because of the rising recognition of snowboarding and snowsports. It’s obtainable by means of Lane Crawford and Salomon will work to develop distribution with specialty shops as effectively. South Korea can also be a goal for the model.
Whereas increasing wholesale is a key technique, direct-to-consumer can also be a spotlight. Net gross sales account for round 20 % of gross sales and Salomon is in search of to greater than double that over the following two years. “We’re doubling the funding in communication and the staff may even be doubled,” he mentioned.
Regardless of many luxurious manufacturers goinng fur-free, together with Armani, Prada and all of the Kering homes together with Balenciaga, Gucci and Saint Laurent, Salomon will proceed to make use of fur, significantly in males’s.
“What’s attention-grabbing is the angle for males’s fur isn’t as aggressive as ladies’s,” he mentioned. “I query myself on daily basis however I feel they really feel that their very own consolation is extra necessary than the criticism they may get.”